"That
windlass needs seeing to," remarked Abbey as we stood on the foredeck of Pioneer,
CK18, the last of the Skillingers. The Skillingers were big, deep sea, sailing
smacks, built on the River Colne in Essex in the c19th and sufficiently robust
to cross the North Sea in winter to dredge for oysters in the stormy waters off
Terschelling. Pioneer was built
by Peter Harris in Rowhedge in 1864 and is therefore 150 years old this year –
though very little remains of her original construction. She was pulled from
the West Mersea mud in 1999 and almost completely restored in a breathtaking
demonstration of ingenuity, determination and the shipwrights' skill. Pioneer
is now sailing the East Coast and the North Sea once again but her cargoes are
people and not crustaceans. She’s a sail training ship, in beautiful condition
– and her connections are clearly determined that she's going to stay that way.
On the fore deck of Pioneer |
This was
my first visit to Pioneer and my first direct encounter with the PioneerSailing Trust, the charity which oversaw her restoration and which is now based
in Harker's Yard, Brightlingsea. So much experience, expertise, enthusiasm had
been accumulated during the six years of salvage and rebuilding. It couldn't
have been allowed to go to waste. Today Harker's Yard is home to a varying
number of shipwrights, volunteers, apprentices and work-experience students.
They undertake a variety of restoration projects and build the Harker's Yard
gigs – of which more another time. Pioneer herself remains the heart of
the enterprise. It was a beautiful day in early September and I was on board in
the company of John Lane, tutor at the Pioneer Sailing Trust, Abbey, one
of the eight current apprentices and George,
a 14 year old currently released from school one day a week for work
experience. "I had to keep my foot on it when I was getting the anchor
up," Abbey went on, pointing to the beginnings of wear on ridges of the
wooden windlass. George nodded in agreement, as one who knew. "That'll be
a yard job for this winter, then," said John.
I had
nothing to contribute to the conversation. What was I doing here? Firstly I
came because I'd been invited by John Lane. He is proud of the PST (Pioneer
Sailing Trust) apprentices and believes that the Harker's Yard scheme offers
something that is at least unusual and possibly unique in UK wooden boat
building. There are currently 8 apprentices, aged between 18 – 24, very
different in their educational backgrounds and skill levels, who are all
working towards a City and Guilds qualification. Of course the qualification is
important but it seemed to me (on this first impression) that it's the working
on real projects, the working both individually and alongside experienced
shipwrights, that gives real value to this scheme.
John and George in joinery work shop |
My
youngest son left school this summer, not quite 18. It can be such a difficult
time for youngsters – and worrying for
parents too. Some will get their grades and go to university – in which case
the difficult moment of finding work may only be postponed, not necessarily
avoided. That was my daughter's experience when she left college in her early
20s with a degree that didn't seem to fit her for anything that she actually
wanted to do. Others will struggle for a while to see how all those years of
school and exams are relevant to the adult world. I had thought my youngest son
would be one of them until he had an amazing stroke of luck and was offered an
office assistant job in the place he'd done his y10 work experience. As this
was Lord's Cricket ground – his idea of heaven on earth – I'm rather hoping
he'll be there for years to come. Others of his friends are starting various
apprenticeships and it's an area I know very little about – except cringing at
the desperate contestants trying to please Lord Sugar on TV.
Pioneer on her mooring |
There were
two other reasons for accepting John Lane's invitation. One was Pioneer herself.
I saw her twice this summer when I was sailing my own boat – once lying at her
mooring at the entrance to the Pyefleet (opposite Brightlingsea) in the early
morning light and again a couple of weeks later reaching briskly up the Wallet
in the sunshine. Her size makes her tremendously impressive close too but what
I also love is her shapeliness as a sailing vessel.
My third reason connects
with this. I was a child of the mid-c20th. My father was a yacht broker, my
uncle a naval architect. My brothers and I spent hours hanging around outside
boatyards while Dad disappeared to have long unintelligible conversations from
which we were excluded. They were all wooden boats of course – Dad hated
fibreglass and sold his business when it became clear that that was what most
people wanted. He got involved in other projects including the management and
restoration of some Thames sailing barges. I was never much use with my hands
but he gave me a part time job one long summer before I went to university
chipping rust off SB Lady Daphne at Cook's Yard, Maldon. People were
perfectly kind to me and I drunk gallons of boatyard tea but I was very shy and
learned absolutely nothing, except to hate the constant feeling of grittiness
in my eyes (for some reason I didn't have protective goggles).
On this
first visit to Harker's Yard Charlie talked to me about the iroko he was using
to build a skylight for a motor launch. Dunstan explained about the
cold-moulding process used to build the gigs and showed me the minute holes made
by the staples which he was brushing out with filler. Liam had made prototype
oars for gigs and Jake showed me the hollow construction which maintains their
lightness without compromising strength. When I complimented him (totally
sincerely) on his workmanship he didn't exactly answer but looked at John Lane
the tutor as if both of them knew what might have been even better. I was
impressed by Abbey's proprietorial attitude to Pioneer's windlass and the
highlight of my visit was listening to George talk about oyster-dredging under
sail on the cockle bawley Dorana MN2. I find it hard to believe that there are
many other 14 year olds in this country with piratical experience like that and
the ability to explain it to an outsider like me.
It's the
beginning of another academic year and the PST have been advertising for 2 or 3
new apprentices. I don't think 60 year old grannies are eligible to apply but
I'm hoping that if I hang around for a while and keep a-hold of my notebook,
I'm going to learn a great deal from these young people and the others working
with them.
Abbey, one of the Harker's Yard apprentices |
This is the first in a series of posts from Harker's Yard. We are planning regular updates over the next twelve months. If you like what you see, please add us to your list of favourites. Your comments are welcome and if you would like to get in touch with the Pioneer Sailing Trust, please visit our website: www.pioneersailingtrust.org.uk
A lovely sailing-related post, I can taste the salt (and the rust!)! The trust seems a very worthy cause to blog about. New sailors and boatbuilders, old boats renewed, what's not to love?
ReplyDeleteI need to apologise to George - I see that an over-hasty spell check has allowed me to say that he has 'piratical' experience rather than the 'practical' variety. Am perfectly certain that George's impressive skills do not include jumping around on a wooden leg with a parrot on his shoulder saying yo ho ho and demanding gold doubloons.
ReplyDeleteA lovely, atmospheric piece, Julia. Itching to be on one of those boats!
ReplyDelete